Mount Folding Brackets to Board
To mount the folding brackets to the board I both mechanically fasten and glue them. Are both necessary? No. Glue alone won’t holdup over time. Mechanically fastening with bolts will but I chose to do both as a middle finger to all the half a$$, corner cutting BS we deal with daily.
First thread the M4 bolts into the the board. Test fit the bracket over the bolts then remove to apply glue. Apply a thick coat of Flexible Contact Adhesive (I use Gorilla Glue or Loctite Glue) in the recess of the folding bracket to fill the void, along the edges of the bracket and on the board down the center line of the bolts hitting the bolts so the glue acts as thread locker.
Gorilla Glue Clear Grip: https://amzn.to/37KJhJw
Loctite Clear Silicone: https://amzn.to/3lEtkuT
Note, a notch was cut into the Mainstay board. We will discuss that shortly.
Once glue is applied, set the folding bracket onto the bolts and snuggly fasten with M4 nuts. Don’t over tighten because the folding bracket has a recess in the center and over tightening will draw the board inward some causing it to curve and smiley face your board. Ask me how I know.
Make sure the bolt is flush with the top of nut or only protrudes a little. If anymore than pictured below, the folding bracket won’t quite close all the way. Remember this is an ultra low profile folding bracket. If you can’t purchase the correct size, cut, grind or file the bolt down as needed. This is why I wasn’t able to use nylon insert lock nuts (aircraft nuts), they were too tall.
There is not much room between the nut head and the recess in the bracket to fit a conventional nut driver. I just ground down a cheap 7mm nut driver to make the walls thinner. My precision Wiha electronics nut driver set only went up to 6mm.
Once the glue sets up, it will solid fill the recess void in the center of the folding bracket making for a more rigid overall build. It’s best to use a flexible glue though as the board will flex some in use and when you remove the shelf from a metal surface.
Optional Notching Edges
If you use a board that is flat on both sides (Faberware Basics) or place the recessed side up and flat side down on the Mainstay, you won’t have to route or cut a notch in the edge for the folding bracket.
I wanted to try several variations of this laptop shelf, so I notched some Mainstay Boards to compare flat top vs recessed top vs Faberware flat/flat. I just used a router which was quick and easy.
I found that I prefer the recessed top for the option to hold material that could roll off including hardware, pens, flashlight etc. so I don’t recommend doing this step, just put the flat side down / recessed side up on the Mainstay boards.
If you don’t want a recessed top, I recommend the Faberware Board.
Mainstay/Dexas Board: https://amzn.to/3bbfMm3
Farberware Basics Board: https://amzn.to/3lzA0dZ
- 8” Steel Folding Bracket: https://amzn.to/2Cjr36a
- M4 Machine Screws 8, 10, 12, 14mm: https://amzn.to/2G8Ocu0
- M4x0.7mm Metric Nut: https://amzn.to/311Y3Ks
- Gorilla Flexible Glue: https://amzn.to/37KJhJw
- 7mm Nut Driver: https://amzn.to/2F2Ggu3
- Loctite Flexible Silicone: https://amzn.to/3lEtkuT
- Router: https://amzn.to/32BYKtn